Replacing trailer hubs

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  • #31
    Originally posted by Bstnsportsfan View Post
    I was talking to my neighbor and we were able to get the cap off without damaging it and inside did not look terrible. Just old grease. I’m going to repack them as you suggested, Bill. I really appreciate your assistance!!!
    Glad to....Couple months ago I'd have gone by and helped ya. Too far away now. Get new grease seals!

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    • #32
      Originally posted by Billinfla View Post

      Glad to....Couple months ago I'd have gone by and helped ya. Too far away now. Get new grease seals!
      I remember you were selling your home. Are you no longer bill “in Stuart”?

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      • #33
        Chris, I’m not sure if your hubs, bearings & races are bad without peeking inside.
        Looks like your grease caps may be cracked(??) but can’t tell from pic.
        Might try and start with a small screwdriver and gently work your way around grease cap to pry it loose, assuming they are still good.
        I have a pair of bearing cap pliers

        Anyway, you can likely find a galvanized replacement grease cap for each hub.
        Clean up studs and mounting pad with a wire brush and put some anti seize on studs prior to installing lug nuts

        Again, all assuming inside components are good or just replace bearings, races & seals—your choice


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        2022 34’ Fountain w/ trip 300 Mercs
        Fairhope & Orange Beach, AL

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        • #34
          Woke up to early!
          Since I know where you are, try Ripper's Trailer in Palm City, they are almost directly by me on Armellini Ave.

          Ideally just take hub off, clean up bearings and hub well and the numbers will sometimes be obvious, however, Ripper's or Rapco will identify!
          Typically a single axle is a 3500 and bearings are 1 3/8 inner and 1 1/4 outer.

          Also my Napa in Okeechobee just measures with calipers and matches as well as checking numbers.

          The longest I go is 2 years, occasionally I'll raise and spin, any noise no matter how slight I pull off and pop out races, noise means corrosion has started and it's like a mountain and gritty and not smooth.

          The more you use it, the less likely to happen!

          Don't go to tight on bearing preload, don't go to loose either, the preload is measured in thousand's of an inch.
          Don't over think it, just be aware.

          It's easier to replace bearings at home than side of road!!!

          Good luck!

          BWP

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          • #35
            Originally posted by Bstnsportsfan View Post

            I remember you were selling your home. Are you no longer bill “in Stuart”?
            No, sold my house on Willoughby Creek and moved to Merritt Island just a few months ago. Little Stuart is exploding, and it was time to downsize.

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            • Bstnsportsfan
              Bstnsportsfan
              Senior Swabby
              Bstnsportsfan commented
              Editing a comment
              I agree. I’m just up the road in very southern PSL and it’s so darn crowded. We bought our house in 2011 so could make a nice little profit. You liking Merrit Island?

            • jmike
              jmike commented
              Editing a comment
              I lived in Juno Beach in 1989-90 and loved the small beach town vibe. Remember driving through Stuart on US 1 and I think 3 or 4 lights from city limit to limit. Was down that way 2 years ago and holy sheet has it changed. We were considering a move down there when I retire but no way no how. Fricken South Florida is creeping north.

          • #36
            The dust cap was screwed on and I was trying to pull it. It’s in good shape and not cracked. Below is a picture of the dust cap removed.

            joey - I started hitting the mounting pad with a wire brush attachment on my drill and it really helped! I’ll also do the studs to get the dust off. Thank you for the suggestion on the anti-seize.

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            • #37
              Originally posted by Bstnsportsfan View Post
              The dust cap was screwed on and I was trying to pull it. It’s in good shape and not cracked. Below is a picture of the dust cap removed.

              joey - I started hitting the mounting pad with a wire brush attachment on my drill and it really helped! I’ll also do the studs to get the dust off. Thank you for the suggestion on the anti-seize.
              No picture.

              Yes we like it. Younger, less "affluent" crowd. Everyone works...fewer "trustafarians". Melbourne has exploded, but Merritt Island has maintained a small town atmosphere. Lotsa inland water, great port/inlet for ocean access.

              My wife likes the weather.....it's got downright cold a few days ago.

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              • #38
                That’s the Turbo Lube hub I mentioned in post #16 that are on my EZ Loader trailer. It does not use grease. It uses 50W oil.
                There’s an Allen head screw that you remove to fill. I use a Valvoline 50W racing oil readily available at Auto Zone. If you removed the outer cap and oil didn’t poor out, you have a seal problem either on the inner and/or outer hub seal.
                Here’s the instructions on filling them: https://floeintl.com/wp-content/uplo..._Hubs_DISC.pdf

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                • #39
                  Yea no oil came out. Sorry I forgot to attach the photo. Instead I just see a big glob of grease. If there is a seal issue do I replace the hub?

                  Attached Files

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                  • #40
                    Does the hub have the Allan screw for filling with oil?
                    As you said, that’s grease. Doesn’t look water contaminated, which is good.
                    Could be somebody packed an oil bath hub with grease and/or somebody put an oil bath hub front cover on a Vortec hub from Tie Down. Tie Down has a sealed hub that uses grease and it has a threaded cover like yours.

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                    • #41
                      Yes there is an Allen screw on the hub. What do you think remove the grease and add the oil to the hub? Sorry I’m completely clueless on this stuff.

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                      • #42
                        Originally posted by Bstnsportsfan View Post
                        Yes there is an Allen screw on the hub. What do you think remove the grease and add the oil to the hub? Sorry I’m completely clueless on this stuff.
                        I'd keep the grease. It's worked fine so far. If it ain't broke don't fix it! Hell, if the other side looks like that side I'm not sure I'd even repack them.........

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                        • #43
                          I’d take a look at the inside of the wheel to see if there are any signs of grease slinging out from the inner axle seal. If there are no signs of that, as Bill mentioned, I’d be inclined to just keep it grease packed. I don’t think the bearings care if they’re lubed by grease or oil and that hub system is a good one to keep water out. As to the grease itself, I prefer the higher temp red and tacky grease, but what you have there will be fine. Put some anti-seize or grease on the lug nut studs and looks like you’re good to go 👍

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                          • #44
                            I'm gonna beg to differ on the grease or oil. I'm not saying it should matter but I have seen a few hubs on semis fail premature that had been packed with grease.

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                            • #45
                              I doubt that hub has oil.
                              I would pull the cotter pin, remove the nut, pull the hub, clean all the grease and bearings and races with a de-greaser, check for any chips or rust pits, pre-pack the bearings and races with a good trailer bearing grease, buy some Bearing Buddy's (2), tap them on, pump them up with said same trailer bearing grease and go trailering.
                              Keep an eye on it, anytime you see grease slingin on the tire rim, inspect. Anytime the grease turns brown, or milky brown/white you have water in the bearings.
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