Triton 220LTS Recommendations

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Triton 220LTS Recommendations

    2018 hull with a factory installed Yamaha F200XB


    Factory installed SWS 21p
    Way too much pitch
    Tried a Reliance 19p
    Slow out of hole
    46mph @ ~6000rpm
    ~20% slip
    Tried a Reliance 17p
    Too small, capable of much greater than 6000rpm
    Tried a PT OFX4 17p
    Better holeshot
    42mph @ ~6000rpm
    ~19% slip

    4” hyd jack plate
    At lowest point, anti-cavitation plate is 1/2” above pad when parallel

    I don’t feel that I get enough bow lift to get the top end that I should.

    Not enough motor?
    I’ve read a number of performance bulletins where heavier boats out perform my boat (top end speed) with the same motor.

    Why so much slip?
    I run with a trolling motor on the bow, 4 flooded cell batteries in console, trim tabs with bow up, 3 water pick ups on transom.

    Thanks in advance for any suggestions to get better performance.


  • #2
    got pictures of the water pickups on the transom?
    Where do you put the motor on the trim/jackplate for the best speed?
    is it faster with the motor all the way down on the jackplate but a lot of trim?

    Wonder if they have changed the hull on the 220 ? Brandon posted some good info on the 240 triton on this thread. I just bumped it up to see if he had any info on the 220 https://www.bandofboaters.com/forum/...erado-350-prop

    Ken Reeves
    [email protected]
    941-735-5808

    Comment


    • #3
      found this thread, guy getting 52 MPH with 250 Pro XS and also high slip numbers.
      https://www.2coolfishing.com/ttmbfor...d.php?t=572593

      Ken Reeves
      [email protected]
      941-735-5808

      Comment


      • #4
        There are 3 EZ Pumps on the transom with the trailing edge just below the pad (1/8” maybe). Actually, one is on pad and other two are on hull step that trails the pad. I don’t use any of them and would consider removing. 1 on livewell, 1 on baitwell, and 1 for future wash down pump (I believe).

        My transom looks just like the earlier models. The only changes to the hull design that I see are above the waterline. That’s another reason I’m looking for help. There’s a Yamaha performance bulletin for a F150 on a 2007 220LTS that outperforms my boat with F200.

        I usually run with jack plate all the way down trimmed about 75% on gauge which equates to the anti-cavitation plate 1/2” above and parallel to pad. I see no performance improvement when I raise the motor with jack plate.

        I take off with motor trimmed all the way down and begin trimming up once on plane. I feel bow lift (some) and speed/rpm increase until 75% trim on gauge. Spray is still splashing from under console area and video looks like I’m plowing. Any further trimming just makes a rooster tail.

        Thanks again.

        Comment


        • #5
          The hull changed in 2017 for the 240 and 220 LTS to incorporate the changes Triton introduced with the 260 LTS in 2015. The boats now have a wider pad to ride on. This is a picture of my 2017 260 LTS. Not only did they improve the pad but they also added bow flare for a drier ride. The 260 lts still keeps the same baitwell/release well that the earlier 220/240 models have but the new 220/240 incorporated jumps seats in the rear beside the release well with the baitwell under the seat.Click image for larger version  Name:	20191226_172653.jpg Views:	0 Size:	2.60 MB ID:	80787
          Last edited by BrandonJ; 04-27-2020, 11:52 PM.

          Comment


          • #6
            This is a earlier 220 LTS. Not mine but you can see it has a sharper v down to a more narrow pad vs the newer wide pad which also to me looks like it flattens out at a more gradual rate. I feel like the newer hull is more stable at speed and drafts a little less.
            Attached Files

            Comment


            • #7
              Thanks for the detailed info BrandonJ !

              Hey Kave, if you take a long straight edge on the hull under the trim tab, how close is the end of the tab to touching that straight edge? (obviously we want the tab in the fully retracted position for this)
              If possible, when running at say 35 MPH, I'd want to see if those tabs are touching the water at all.
              Everything your describing sounds like the boat just wont' lift the bow, and if the tabs are touching, the prop will never win the battle against the tab.
              Your having to run the motor deep (which gives more bowlift) your trimming up a lot, with minimal results, and your speed and slip is bad.
              I think your tabs might be touching the water, even when fully retracted.

              Ken Reeves
              [email protected]
              941-735-5808

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks for the replies.

                With tabs fully retracted (bow up)
                Leading edge of tabs (hinges) are 3/8” above bottom of hull.
                Trailing edge of tabs are 1&1/8” above straight edge extending from bottom of hull.

                Tabs are fully retracted when running.


                I don’t have anything else in the water mounted on the transom.
                Power pole, swim ladder, and transducer are out of the water when on plane. I use an in-hull transducer for depth when on plane.

                I’ve also seen a thread suggesting the pickup in front of prop can create turbulence that negatively affects the performance of the prop. Thoughts? I have one directly in front of prop.

                Comment


                • #9
                  is that the big white pickup? or one on the bottom of the hull that we can't see in the picture?
                  If its the white one, it looks like it would be easy enough to remove that one temporarily to see if it makes a difference.

                  Ken Reeves
                  [email protected]
                  941-735-5808

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I will certainly give that a try and report back.

                    Thanks

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I wonder if an Enertia(non eco) 19p would be better? I had good results with this prop on my 07' 22 lts with the 225 verado.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I like the Enertia, but if the OFX4 and SWS are slipping that much, the smaller diameter Enertia is probaby going to slip a lot too.
                        something is odd about the amount off slip everything is getting.

                        Ken Reeves
                        [email protected]
                        941-735-5808

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Update:

                          Removed EZ Pump cover believed to be aerating the water in front of the prop.

                          With 17p OFX4:

                          ~4400RPM = 32.3mph (15% slip)
                          ~5900RPM = 43.8mph (14% slip)

                          Definitely an improvement. I felt like the boat had more bow lift at cruising speed.

                          One thing puzzles me. When cruising at ~30mph and happy with the ride, I decide to open her up. When I apply wide open throttle only (no other adjustments to trim, jack plate, etc..), I lose some bowlift.

                          i would expect more lift. Am I wrong?

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I'd say lets try a 17 pitch Q4 and just see what happens.

                            Ken Reeves
                            [email protected]
                            941-735-5808

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X