PTT slow trim up/down F150TLRC kicks up in reverse down relief check valve assy

[BaffinBay]

F150TLRC 2004 four stroke: two issues, related -
1) Trim is very slow going both up and down. Very slow. Tilt is operating as expected.
2) The prop kicks up out of the water during hard reverse.
These are new problems since I DIY did a complete overhaul on the PTT unit Yamaha p/n 63P-43800-00-40, including complete disassembly of the oil pump down to the component level. Assembled using Yamaha OEM parts and fluid. I have the shop and the tools to do the job, including Yamaha Service Manual LIT-18616-02-51 (as well as Suzuki Service Manual 99500-96J10-01E, which is outstanding for describing how this unit works).

Reference Yamaha F150TLRC power trim/tilt assembly diagram 1.

My specific question: please clarify the parts stack up of the down relief valve. The parts diagram shows (left to right)
item 26 O-ring, item 28 check ball 6E5-43858-00-00, item 27 pin 64E-4381G-00-00, and item 29 valve seat 64E-4382G-00-00.

Properly assembled, is the check ball to the left of the pin, or to the right of the pin. That is, does the pin capture the check ball inside the valve seat, or is the ball on the main housing side of the pin. The diagram shows the latter.

FYI: all soft parts are properly installed, the system was properly filled during assembly, per Yamaha service instructions. YamaLube power trim and tilt fluid is topped off in the reservoir, and the manual relief valve is seated and holding pressure as expected. I have replaced the pump motor with an aftermarket (D&G Electric Motor Service) due to the cost of OEM brush assemblies and shaft seal. The new motor is operating as expected.

Thank you for your help with this question on the down relief valve stack up, and any other suggestions you may have.

[BaffinBay]

Correction: the PTT assembly is Yamaha p/n 63P-43800-00-00. This is the SHOWA three ram PTT, 2004 vintage.

[SIM]

What is the fluid level with the engine tilted all the way up, resting on the tilt levers? Should be level with the bottom part of the fill hole on the reservoir. Does the fluid look aeriated?

If you tilt it up or trim it up and let is sit, does it come down on its own over time? Are you sure the manual release valve is assembled correctly with oring and tightened?

[BaffinBay]

Andy, thank you for your reply. The hydraulic system is properly topped off and has no entrapped air. The manual relief valve is seated, O-rings in good condition. It will hold the engine in the tilted "up" position with no bleed off. My problem is I think with my DIY mis-assembly of the check ball(s) in either the main/shuttle valve array (4 check balls), 64E43858-00-00 and 72X-43858-00-00, or down relief valve array with ball 6E5-43858-00-00. I will order a set of check balls. They will be bagged and tagged so I know I have the correct balls in the correct places. The attachments are from Suzuki factory service manual 99500-96J10-01E. I will post results of my reassembly. Further suggestions are welcome.

[SIM]

Outside of seals and orings and manual release valves and gear pump assy's, we hardly take those fully apart and repair. If we did, we'd own it.....forever. lol. I used to have some pretty good service school info with good pictures of how that re-assembles, I'll see if I can find it. I know if one part isn't right, it doesn't work as it should.

[BaffinBay]

Andy, this is information on the 3 ram Showa PTT that is on my Yamaha F150TLRC. The hydraulic circuit information is from Suzuki service manual 99500-96J10-01E.
The photo is the down check/orifice valve from my unit, which is now on the operating table waiting on parts. The orifice is a tiny drilling in the end of the valve seat. You have to look closely. The Yamaha diagram shows this orifice as a separate circuit, for illustration. The parts diagram shows the stack up (R to L) as valve seat, pin, ball, o-ring. The actual stack up (R to L) is valve seat, ball, pin, o-ring, which makes sense: the pin captures the ball inside the seat. The pin is a very loose slip fit in the valve seat. I will post results of my re-re-repeat repair. I think you are wise not getting this deep into component repair, for the reasons you noted.