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  • LFBB
    replied
    Slap some flex tape on it and keep moving.

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  • Fish'nfool
    replied
    Well good news, spoke to the tech and as Ole suggested, I checked the throttle linkage and it was off. A quick adjustment and all is good. Crisis averted

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  • Fish'nfool
    replied
    Originally posted by SIM View Post

    To add to what Ole mentioned, I would suggest calling the service dealer that did the work. I know if I had done the repair for you and something wasn't right, I would want to know so we could fix it.
    I wish you were closer.

    I sent them an email last night about it, asked if the tech could give me a call this morning. Haven't heard so I'm going to call them up now.

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  • Parker Yacht
    replied
    Originally posted by Fish'nfool View Post

    Thanks. I hope it's as simple as an adjustment to the linkage cause if I have to pull the boat again and haul it back over the bridge to them I'll.

    I guess too I could shift it with the engine off to see if the stiffness is still there.
    It will be worse then. Not the way to test it, unless it's disconnected.
    And, what Andy said.

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  • SIM
    replied
    Originally posted by Fish'nfool View Post
    Got the boat back today! $3k later...

    Dropped it in the water fired right up and ran good. I did notice the idel RPM was 800. Ok... Off I went...

    Got to my dock and.tried to shift into neutral and it was very hard and would grind into reverse, then I'd have to shift back to neutral. Tried it again same thing, and again got it into neutral this time without grinding into reverse.

    Is this a symptom of my idle RPMs being too high?
    To add to what Ole mentioned, I would suggest calling the service dealer that did the work. I know if I had done the repair for you and something wasn't right, I would want to know so we could fix it.

    Leave a comment:


  • Fish'nfool
    replied
    Originally posted by Parker Yacht View Post
    Idle spec is 700+/- 50rpm.
    800 is not perfect, but I don't think that is the issue.
    I would check your shift linkage adjustment/measurement at the engine (Disconnect the shift cable at the shifting mechanism on the engine, put the engine shift mechanism is neutral by hand, put the shifter in neutral, see if the two line up at the connection point on the engine). and I would check the shifting, when NOT connected to the engine.
    Thanks. I hope it's as simple as an adjustment to the linkage cause if I have to pull the boat again and haul it back over the bridge to them I'll.

    I guess too I could shift it with the engine off to see if the stiffness is still there.

    Leave a comment:


  • Parker Yacht
    replied
    Idle spec is 700+/- 50rpm.
    800 is not perfect, but I don't think that is the issue.
    I would check your shift linkage adjustment/measurement at the engine (Disconnect the shift cable at the shifting mechanism on the engine, put the engine shift mechanism is neutral by hand, put the shifter in neutral, see if the two line up at the connection point on the engine). and I would check the shifting, when NOT connected to the engine.

    Leave a comment:


  • Fish'nfool
    replied
    Got the boat back today! $3k later...

    Dropped it in the water fired right up and ran good. I did notice the idel RPM was 800. Ok... Off I went...

    Got to my dock and.tried to shift into neutral and it was very hard and would grind into reverse, then I'd have to shift back to neutral. Tried it again same thing, and again got it into neutral this time without grinding into reverse.

    Is this a symptom of my idle RPMs being too high?

    Leave a comment:


  • massbay
    replied
    At the shop the general rule of thumb is 15 yrs old.
    after 15 yrs you're in maintenance mode,
    if you can keep it running $1000.00 at a time ,go for it.
    if you have to put multiple thousands into a 20 yr old motor it will usually bite you in the butt.
    even though yamaha kind of has a corrosion issue, it seem's to go for any brand motor.

    Leave a comment:


  • Fish'nfool
    replied
    Good news, bad news....

    Good news, the corrosion is limited to the guide exhaust/mid section, bad news it is a $2k+ repair bill. Cheaper than a repower I suppose. Doing the oil pump and speedi sleeve while the block is off which will add to my bill.

    Should be back on the water next week.
    Last edited by Fish'nfool; 05-24-2021, 06:20 PM.

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  • Fish'nfool
    replied
    Originally posted by NO WAKE View Post
    I have a friend of mine who has a 2000 200 Yammie that corroded through at one of the thermostat mounting pads. I have never seen nor heard of that before. The engine had the warranty upgrades done to the mid section a while ago. Damn shame!
    While changing thermostats in one of my motors i noticed a significant pit forming inside the tstat cavity. I wire wheeled it, hit with zinc chromate paint and jb weld. So far so good.

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  • NO WAKE
    replied
    I have a friend of mine who has a 2000 200 Yammie that corroded through at one of the thermostat mounting pads. I have never seen nor heard of that before. The engine had the warranty upgrades done to the mid section a while ago. Damn shame!

    Leave a comment:


  • Parker Yacht
    commented on 's reply
    Yes, but only on the adapter plate, and only that spot on some F150's.

  • Fish'nfool
    replied
    Originally posted by DaleH View Post
    In the top picture ... how does the corrosion hole migrate from the adaptor plate (from 2nd picture) out to the panel via a perfect hole? Heat?
    Heat! It melted the apron.

    F150 w/1k hrs. Guide exhaust corrosion. Boat used primarily in brackish water. Pulling block this week to see what we can see. Hopefully isolated to just the guide exhaust.

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  • DaleH
    replied
    In the top picture ... how does the corrosion hole migrate from the adaptor plate (from 2nd picture) out to the panel via a perfect hole? Heat?

    Leave a comment:

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