Filling Wallowed Out Screw Holes?

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  • Filling Wallowed Out Screw Holes?

    Got a few places on the boat with some really lose screws (matches me according to the GF/F/W). I don't want to put in larger screws in most as they are hinges and I don't want the larger heads sticking out to obstruct the hinge closing. I have used Marine Rex before and didn't think is was that great. Anybody use anything else? What seemed to work best?

  • #2
    I am not sure where the holes actually are, or the material they are in, but, you could probably remove the screws and glue/place in the hole a solid filler, then screw them back in.
    Markofs

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    • #3
      Holes are iin a couple of hatch lids made of fiberglass. Can't thru bolt them without making it look like crap so I gotta fill them.

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      • #4
        Sometimes a simple sliver of wood inserted in the hole to make the hole smaller works.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Billinstuart View Post
          Sometimes a simple sliver of wood inserted in the hole to make the hole smaller works.
          What works GREAT for this are pieces of bamboo chop stiks! But if I were you, I'd also buy the 'Sample' epoxy kit from Raka Epoxy, only $18, and includes various epoxy, hardener and fillers. I would fill the worn out hole with a thickened mix and then re-drill.

          "The kit includes twelve ounces of our standard marine epoxy Resin 127 with fast 610 and slow 606 hardeners, a small sample of silica, micro-bubbles, and a sample of standard 6 oz. fiberglass."

          http://store.raka.com/epoxysamplekit.aspx
          Life is too short for an ugly boat!

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          • #6
            As others have suggested, fill the holes with a thickened epoxy. I like Six 10 thickened epoxy. Comes in a caulk like tube and its very easy to work with. Put masking tape on the backside of the hole so it doesn't ooze out. I like to slightly over fill the hole, then you can either cut it off flush with a sharp chisel or sand it down so it matches perfectly. Now you have a blank canvas to start over with.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Sans Peur View Post
              Got a few places on the boat with some really lose screws (matches me according to the GF/F/W). I don't want to put in larger screws in most as they are hinges and I don't want the larger heads sticking out to obstruct the hinge closing. I have used Marine Rex before and didn't think is was that great. Anybody use anything else? What seemed to work best?
              Depending on the size of the screw, the thickness of the glass and the weight of the door/cabinet or hinge, epoxy/Marine REX is not enough.
              You could use a thread insert, or bed the hinge in 5200.
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              • #8
                T-Nuts also work! On occasion for fitment issues, I have made a shallow 'pocket' on the backside of the hatch so as to allow the lid to sit/close flush. These can be stronger than a threaded insert if the parent material is suspect.
                ....
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                Life is too short for an ugly boat!

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                • #9
                  Both areas are impossible to get behind and use a standard hinge for the hatch. I am probably going to try the wood bamboo dowel/epoxy avenue. Worse case scenario if it doesn't work i will drill it out twice the size and stuff it with some rolled fiberglass and resin. Then redrill it to the correct size.

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                  • #10
                    Thickened epoxy is my favorite, fill hole, drill out a 16th smaller for some bite and should hold for awhile.
                    Best of luck!
                    BWP

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                    • #11
                      I have had great success slightly overdrilling the hole with a countersink, this will expose more "raw" laminate surface area. Don't want to punch the countersink all the way through the hole, lets assume the laminate is 1/8" = 1/4" thick. Marine Tex ("Rex?") is the wrong product, it is mostly filler and very little tension strength for this. WEST system epoxy thickened with 403 Milled Fibers (or High Density filler). Mix it thick enough to not run when applied to your holes, thicker if its a vertical surface. Pre attach the hinge to whatever hatch you are installing, and spray or wipe some wax or lube onto the surface that will be mated up to the epoxy-holes. (this mixture will be permanent, even between glass and stainless). Hopefully you have a few holes in the lineup that will "grip" your self tappers and the rest that were stripped will sit there until the epoxy cures. wipe any epoxy from the screw heads before it kicks. Milled fibers and High Density both have extremely high tensional strength when mixed with the epoxy (about 450% more than Cab O Sil, Low Density, microlight, or Marine "Rex"). The lube is to hopefully allow you to pull this hatch off in the future. Exposing the surface area with the countersink gives the epoxy/fiber mixture a better "Mechanical Bond" to the glass laminate, and will be hidden by the hinge if I understand the application correctly...Dab slightly more than the volume of a #2 pencil eraser when getting the epoxy into each hole, too much makes a mess, too little does not give you 100% surface area coverage in each hole.

                      If you were to fill the hole, let kick and assume you could redrill the newly filled material slightly smaller than the fastener, it won't work because the cured mixture will crack when the self tapper is tightened. (you could drill and tap though).

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