Lock Tite

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  • Lock Tite

    Some of the screws holding the t-top to the deck of my 32' loosened. A friend suggested that I use locktite on them. Is this a good idea?

  • #2
    Only recommended for metal to metal contact. PY or some of the others mat chime in and tell how it works with fiberglass.

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    • #3
      I wouldn’t, unless as Slough said it’s metal on metal.
      If screwing into deck, with that much weight swinging around I’d use one step shy of 5200, or I might even put a dab on screw, but that’s just me.
      They also make those thingys for tying down helm seats, etc (name escapes me) that adds some support from bottom side.
      Are screws long enough? Stripping or wallowing out? Or just getting a little loose and you’re able to tighten back down securely?
      ‘12 Blackwood 27 - sold
      '17 Nor-Tech 340 - sold
      '18 Fountain 38 - sold
      ’19 Invincible 36 - 350 Verado’s

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      • #4
        Need more info:
        Why are the screws loose, bad substrake?
        Screws and console's generally are not good, need to figure out how to "thru-bolt" at least the four corners.
        "IF" the screws can hold, 5200 is good.
        Engine Sales and Service
        Ph +1 954.463.1515
        Fx +1
        954.463.4904
        Toll Free: 800.622.6747

        oparker@parkeryacht.com
        www.parkeryacht.com

        Member of the MSHS Group

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Tiretyme View Post
          I wouldn’t, unless as Slough said it’s metal on metal.
          If screwing into deck, with that much weight swinging around I’d use one step shy of 5200, or I might even put a dab on screw, but that’s just me.
          They also make those thingys for tying down helm seats, etc (name escapes me) that adds some support from bottom side.
          Are screws long enough? Stripping or wallowing out? Or just getting a little loose and you’re able to tighten back down securely?
          Agreed

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks guys. I have used 5200 elsewhere on boat. I can tighten the screws.

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            • #7
              Upon closer examination, it is a bolt into a backing plate that is inaccessible. It is metal to metal. It appears that the nut end on some of the bolts is partially stripped, others are ok but they vibrated loose. Any ideas? I can't do tap and die.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by cpflaum View Post
                Upon closer examination, it is a bolt into a backing plate that is inaccessible. It is metal to metal. It appears that the nut end on some of the bolts is partially stripped, others are ok but they vibrated loose. Any ideas? I can't do tap and die.
                Post up some pics if you can and I’ll ask Prop if he’s seen this on others
                ‘12 Blackwood 27 - sold
                '17 Nor-Tech 340 - sold
                '18 Fountain 38 - sold
                ’19 Invincible 36 - 350 Verado’s

                Comment


                • #9
                  Anything?
                  Engine Sales and Service
                  Ph +1 954.463.1515
                  Fx +1
                  954.463.4904
                  Toll Free: 800.622.6747

                  oparker@parkeryacht.com
                  www.parkeryacht.com

                  Member of the MSHS Group

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    A total mess. Four of the six bolts sheared and the other two stripped. The boat is in the yard. I expect that all will need to be tapped out. I think that this happened because I was running at cruising speed with the shade deployed but I am not sure.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by cpflaum View Post
                      A total mess. Four of the six bolts sheared and the other two stripped. The boat is in the yard. I expect that all will need to be tapped out. I think that this happened because I was running at cruising speed with the shade deployed but I am not sure.
                      Any news? Have they repaired it?

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                      • #12
                        It is repaired. Had to drill out the sheared bolt, cut access holes to get to the mounts and then use heavier nuts and bots to reattach.
                        Last edited by cpflaum; 07-15-2019, 11:20 AM.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by cpflaum View Post
                          It is repaired. Had to drill out the sheared bold, cut access holes to get to the mounts and then use heavier nuts and bots to reattach.
                          Well, glad it is repaired anyway..

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