Yamaha F150 shifting problem

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  • Yamaha F150 shifting problem

    After last trip when the boat was nearly loaded back on trailer I lost the ability to shift into forward or reverse. Basically it wouldn't complete the shift before the throttle engaged resulting in an un-shifted engine revving.
    Doing some trouble shooting with some advice from my other thread. It can be shifted by hand (shifting cable removed) but from forward or reverse it doesn't want to return to neutral. When I hand shift from either back to neutral it stays in gear unless I go significantly past the neutral mark. I suspect something is up with the dog clutch. But am in the territory of zero experience and just learning about how an outboard shifts.

    I'm not excited at attempting to pull the carrier bearing but am dumb enough to try. Any advice as to what I should do next? Anything I'm missing?

    does the "compression spring" assist the dog clutch in sliding back to neutral?

    Thanks for any and all help.

  • #2
    What year is the engine?
    How many hours?
    Have you pulled the drain plug/magnet and checked for metal shavings?
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    • #3
      2006. about 800 hours.

      I have not pulled drain plug magnet.

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      • #4
        If you are trying to shift the engine by hand, engine not running, it will not shift correctly without spinning the prop at the same time.
        Have you inspected the shift cable casing at the entrance to the engine? Is it inside a rigging tube?
        Engine Sales and Service
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        • #5
          I've not tried to shift without the engine running. When I shifted by hand, the engine was running, the shift cable was detached. I was moving what the cable would attach to and observing how the prop behaved. From what I've learned there is a neutral mark (I also observe an electrical switch, letting something know that the mechanics are in neutral ?)

          I'll post today's pics. tomorrow. Milky LU oil and a close up of metal shavings on the LU oil drain screw/plug.

          Thank you for reading and replying!

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          • #6

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            • #7
              Building a LU stand today.

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              • #8
                I'd be flushing that sludge out of there.
                Then try it.
                Then reseal it.
                Engine Sales and Service
                Ph +1 954.463.1515
                Fx +1
                954.463.4904
                Toll Free: 800.622.6747

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                www.parkeryacht.com

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                • #9
                  So you're thinking the oil/water mixture is preventing normal shifting? And running it after flushing and fresh LU oil would confirm. Then replace the faulty oil seals?

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by fijon View Post
                    So you're thinking the oil/water mixture is preventing normal shifting? And running it after flushing and fresh LU oil would confirm. Then replace the faulty oil seals?
                    Yes, I would try that first, from the magnet I don't see huge chunks.
                    Flush the lower good, I would use diesel to dilute the sludge. Pump the unit full of diesel, run it for a minute or two in gear, drain, then fill with fresh lube, run longer, drain, fill again with fresh lube and see if that "fixes" the shifting, if so, change seals, if not disassemble and diagnose.
                    Engine Sales and Service
                    Ph +1 954.463.1515
                    Fx +1
                    954.463.4904
                    Toll Free: 800.622.6747

                    [email protected]
                    www.parkeryacht.com

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                    • #11
                      It's been a saga and I own some new tools. I replaced all the seals. The pinion gears had some light rust but the shifter (spring ball bearing thing that's inside the propeller shaft) was pretty seized. I had to cut out the bearing carrier retaining ring and in hindsight it was easier and would have prevented me from buying a 1" driver breaker bar and 1" drive 32mm socket. When I started to bend the bar (using a big cheater pipe) I gave up and the aluminum ring was easy to cut out. And I had the foresight to order a replacement.

                      fast forward to installation. 3 test trips and still no forward shifting. It shifts into forward on muffs. I did discover a cracked up prop insert (spun hub) but a replacement didn't fix the issue. I've also discovered that it locks into forward when the engine is tilted up (gravity helping). There is s little bit of propeller shaft play when every thing is installed. Uninstalled when the clutch dog is in forward it has play 1/16 -1/8th, before the dog is at the end of it's motion. There is a lot of play in the shift rod receiver.

                      I also had marred up the shift rod splines enough to prevent it from inserting fully. And in exploring shift rod shifter function lost a couple of ball bearings. The ones that "lock" the shifter/dog clutch into forward, neutral and reverse. Those bearings were pitted a bit and obviously will be replaced with new ones.

                      So I'm hoping with the new bearings and properly inserted shift rod things will work as they should. I need a day on the water fishing.

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                      • bluewaterposer
                        bluewaterposer commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Good luck! Keep on keeping on!

                      • Parker Yacht
                        Parker Yacht commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Those gears---------are toast.

                    • #12
                      Good luck. I used to be good at setting up differentials and rebuilding single and two speed transmissions (think forklifts and heavy equipment). I went into a lower unit once thinking it would be a cake walk. It took me 3 attempts before it worked right.

                      Follow directions and pay close attention to preloads and tolerances.

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                      • fijon
                        fijon commented
                        Editing a comment
                        There doesn't seem like much adjustment for tolerances. There are shims at the top of the drive shaft and reverse gear. From what I understand they are set to the tolerance variance of the casing to set the engagement of all the pinion gears correctly. Once set they don't need re-measurement or adjustment unless the LU housing is changed. I-boat has a pretty good video on a Yamaha lower unit complete rebuild.

                    • #13
                      What makes the gears toast?

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                      • #14
                        Originally posted by fijon View Post
                        What makes the gears toast?
                        The rust and pits.
                        Engine Sales and Service
                        Ph +1 954.463.1515
                        Fx +1
                        954.463.4904
                        Toll Free: 800.622.6747

                        [email protected]
                        www.parkeryacht.com

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                        • Slough
                          Slough commented
                          Editing a comment
                          Just gives it a little roar !!!!!!

                      • #15
                        They cleaned up a bit. If I get it functional maybe I'll replace them. I really need to get the drive shaft spline adapter.

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                        • Parker Yacht
                          Parker Yacht commented
                          Editing a comment
                          Looks a wee bit "Ruff". Spline adapter?
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